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<p>Preface xxi</p> <p><b>Part 1: General Topics 1</b></p> <p><b>1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3</b><br /><i>Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao</i></p> <p>1.1 Introduction 4</p> <p>1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8</p> <p>1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17</p> <p>1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25</p> <p>1.5 Summary 28</p> <p><b>2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35</b><br /><i>Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui</i></p> <p>2.1 Introduction 35</p> <p>2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38</p> <p>2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41</p> <p>2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47</p> <p>2.5 Results and Discussion 50</p> <p>2.6 Summary 67</p> <p><b>3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73</b><br /><i>Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser</i></p> <p>3.1 Introduction 73</p> <p>3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74</p> <p>3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76</p> <p>3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80</p> <p>3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81</p> <p>3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85</p> <p>3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89</p> <p>3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92</p> <p>3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97</p> <p>3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99</p> <p>3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99</p> <p>3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103</p> <p>3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104</p> <p>3.14 Summary 105</p> <p><b>4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109</b><br /><i>Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma</i></p> <p>4.1 Introduction 110</p> <p>4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113</p> <p>4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116</p> <p>4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120</p> <p>4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122</p> <p>4.6 Results and Discussion 123</p> <p>4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141</p> <p><b>5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151</b><br /><i>Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk</i></p> <p>5.1 Introduction 151</p> <p>5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152</p> <p>5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157</p> <p>5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160</p> <p>5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear</p> <p><b>Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183</b></p> <p><b>6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185</b><br /><i>Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves</i></p> <p>6.1 Introduction 185</p> <p>6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187</p> <p>6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187</p> <p>6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197</p> <p>6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203</p> <p>6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207</p> <p>6.7 Prospects 208</p> <p>6.8 Summary 208</p> <p><b>7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215</b><br /><i>Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu</i></p> <p>7.1 Hair Structure 215</p> <p>7.2 Elements of AFM 217</p> <p>7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle 227</p> <p>7.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM 237</p> <p>7.5 Summary 240</p> <p><b>8 Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition 245</b><br /><i>Norbert Biderman and Hy Si Bui</i></p> <p>8.1 Introduction 245</p> <p>8.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques 246</p> <p>8.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy 247</p> <p>8.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy 249</p> <p>8.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface 249</p> <p>8.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM 251</p> <p>8.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM 254</p> <p>8.8 Hair Studies via AFM 256</p> <p>8.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface 256</p> <p>8.9 Skin Studies via AFM 265</p> <p>8.10 Summary and Prospects 274</p> <p><b>9 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics 279</b><br /><i>Norbert Biderman</i></p> <p>9.1 Introduction 279</p> <p>9.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 280</p> <p>9.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS 290</p> <p>9.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS 295</p> <p>9.5 Future Prospects 305</p> <p><b>Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects 309</b></p> <p><b>10 Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector 311</b><br /><i>Davide Rossi and Nicola Realdon</i></p> <p>10.1 Introduction 312</p> <p>10.2 Peels 313</p> <p>10.3 Face Masks 316</p> <p>10.4 Serums 325</p> <p>10.5 Eye Contour Creams 327</p> <p>10.6 Mascara 329</p> <p>10.7 Eyeshadows 334</p> <p>10.8 Lipsticks 336</p> <p>10.9 Foundation 339</p> <p>10.10 Anti-Aging Formulations 340</p> <p>10.11 Summary 348</p> <p><b>11 Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair 353</b><br /><i>Yashavanth Kamath and Xuemin Chen</i></p> <p>11.1 Introduction 353</p> <p>11.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers 354</p> <p>11.3 Materials and Experimental Methods 359</p> <p>11.4 Results and Discussion 361</p> <p>11.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair 370</p> <p>11.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber 373</p> <p>11.7 Summary 375</p> <p><b>12 Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability 379</b><br /><i>Joseph V. Badami and Hy Si Bui</i></p> <p>12.1 Introduction 380</p> <p>12.2 Experiments 381</p> <p>12.3 Results and Discussion 384</p> <p>12.4 Summary and Perspectives 396</p> <p><b>13 Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization 401</b><br /><i>Gustavo S. Luengo, Eduardo Guzman, Laura Fernández-Peña, Fabien Leonforte, Francisco Ortega and Ramon G. Rubio</i></p> <p>13.1 Introduction 402</p> <p>13.2 Hair Structure and Its External Surface 403</p> <p>13.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces 413</p> <p>13.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures 430</p> <p>13.5 Prospects 441</p> <p>13.6 Summary 441</p> <p><b>14 Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks 451</b><br /><i>Julien Portal, Xavier Schultze, Simon Taupin, Mireille Arnaud-Roux, Jerome Bonnard, Gregoire Naudin, Marc Hely, Hy Bui and Norbert Biderman</i></p> <p>14.1 Introduction 452</p> <p>14.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions 456</p> <p>14.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick 476</p> <p>14.4 Summary and Prospects 480</p> <p><b>15 Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers 487</b><br /><i>Hubert Lam</i></p> <p>15.1 Introduction 488</p> <p>15.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physicochemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 488</p> <p>15.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 510</p> <p>15.4 Summary and Prospects 534</p> <p><b>16 Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin 543</b><br /><i>Zhi Li and Hy Si Bui</i></p> <p>16.1 Introduction 543</p> <p>16.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties 544</p> <p>16.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components 549</p> <p>16.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers 573</p> <p>16.5 Summary and Prospects 580</p> <p><b>17 Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara 585</b><br /><i>Christopher Pang and Hy Si Bui</i></p> <p>17.1 Introduction 585</p> <p>17.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview 587</p> <p>17.3 Types of Mascaras 589</p> <p>17.4 Components in Mascara Formulations 593</p> <p>17.5 Long-Wear Mascaras 596</p> <p>17.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara 598</p> <p>17.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara on an Eyelash 604</p> <p>17.8 Removability of Mascara 624</p> <p>17.9 Summary and Prospects 628</p> <p><b>18 Lipstick Adhesion Measurement 635</b><br /><i>Caroline Richard</i></p> <p>18.1 Introduction 635</p> <p>18.2 Definition of Adhesion 641</p> <p>18.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods 643</p> <p>18.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods 649</p> <p>18.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests 656</p> <p>18.6 Summary 659</p> <p>Acknowledgments 659</p> <p>References 659</p> <p>Index 663</p>

<p><b>Kashmiri Lal Mittal</b> was employed by the IBM Corporation from 1972 through 1993. Currently, he is teaching and consulting worldwide in the broad areas of adhesion as well as surface cleaning. He has received numerous awards and honors including the title of doctor <i>honoris causa</i> from Maria Curie-Skłodowska University, Lublin, Poland. He is the editor of more than 130 books dealing with adhesion measurement, adhesion of polymeric coatings, polymer surfaces, adhesive joints, adhesion promoters, thin films, polyimides, surface modification surface cleaning, and surfactants. Dr. Mittal is also the Founding Editor of the journal <i>Reviews of Adhesion and Adhesives</i>.</p><p><b>Hy Si Bui</b> obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L’OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L’OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.</p>

<p><b>This unique book consolidates in an easily accessible source the current state-of-the knowledge regarding surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics.</b></p><p>Activity in the arena of surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics is substantial, but the information is scattered in many diverse publications media and no book exists which discusses surface chemistry and adhesion in cosmetics in a unified manner.</p><p>This book containing 18 chapters written by eminent researchers from academia and the cosmetics industry is divided into three parts: Part 1: General Topics; Part 2: Surface Chemistry Aspects; and Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects. The topics covered include: Lip biophysical properties and characterization; use of advanced silicone materials in long-lasting cosmetics; non-aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers in lipsticks; cosmetic oils in lipstick structure; chemical structure of the hair surface, surface forces and interactions; AFM for hair surface characterization; application of AFM in characterizing hair, skin and cosmetic deposition; SIMS as a surface analysis method for hair, skin and cosmetics; surface tensiometry approach to characterize cosmetic products; spreading of hairsprays on hair; color transfer from long-wear face foundation products; interaction of polyelectrolytes and surfactants on hair surfaces; cosmetic adhesion to facial skin; and adhesion aspects in semi-permanent mascara; lipstick adhesion measurement.</p><p><b>Audience</b><BR><p>The book should be of immense interest to cosmetologists, dermatologists, beauticians, and R&D personnel in the cosmetics industry. Surface chemists, adhesionists, materials scientists, polymer scientists, biologists and pharmaceutical scientists will also find this book of much value.</p>

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