This Owners Edition - Workshop Manual covers the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Van and Camper Diesel models fitted with 2151cc (four-cylinder 2.2 litre) and 2686cc (five-cylinder 2.7 litre) engines (types 611 DELA & 612 DELA), with the modes covered: 208 CDI, 308 CDI, 211 CDI, 311 CDI, 411 CDI, 213 CDI, 313 CDI, 413 CDI, 216 CDI, 316 CDI, & 416 CD. Identification type 901, 902, 903 and 904 depending on the version. All engines operate with the “Common Rail” injection system, known as CDI models built between 2000 and the end of 2006. It has been specially written for the practical owner who wants to maintain a vehicle in first-class condition and carry out the bulk of his or her own servicing and repairs. Comprehensive step-by-step instructions are provided for service and overhaul operations to guide the reader through what might otherwise be unfamiliar and complicated tasks. Numerous drawings are included to amplify the text.

With the aid of this manual, many aspects of service, overhaul and repair are within the scope of an owner with a reasonable degree of mechanical aptitude. Some operations however demand more skill. Other jobs require the use of special tools and in some cases testing facilities and techniques that are not generally available. Only you can judge whether a job is within your capabilities. We do however try to assist the reader to come to an informed decision. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the information provided is correct, it is obviously not possible to guarantee complete freedom from errors or omissions.

Information to be found in the driver’s handbook is not necessarily duplicated here and it is not possible within this volume to cover every aspect to be found in the manufacturer’s own workshop manual which is of much greater size and complexity. However, it should be consulted if more detailed information is needed.

Always remember that you are responsible for your own safety and that of others when working on a vehicle. Take particular care with safety-related systems like the brakes and steering, and seek professional advice if in any doubt. Never work under a vehicle unless it is properly supported (a single jack is not enough). Take care with power tools, also regard as potentially harmful fuel, lubricants, solvents and sealers which should always be and kept in labelled, sealed containers.

With care and common sense, the practical owner can make an excellent job of maintenance and overhaul. The benefits include money saved and the satisfaction of work well done. You will be adding to your knowledge, too: knowing more about the vehicle you own will help you to make logical decisions about what needs to be done, even if it does in some instances have to go into a professional repair shop.

The Mercedes-Benz Sprinter is a vehicle that will respond to careful regular servicing and is built to a standard that will ensure a long life if this is remembered.

© Copyright Brooklands Books Ltd. 2010 and PR Publications Limited

This book has been compiled from text and illustrations supplied by PR Publications Limited and have been used with their kind permission.

Text and illustrations may not be reproduced, transmitted or copied by any means without the prior written permission of Brooklands Books Limited and PR Publications Limited.

Whilst every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the particulars in this manual, neither the Publisher nor the Distributors nor the Dealer, by whom this manual is supplied shall under any circumstances be held liable for any inaccuracy or the consequences thereof.

ISBN 9781855209749 MBSWHEK

Brooklands Books Ltd.
PO Box 146, Cobham, Surrey KT11 1LG, England
Tel. 01932 865051 Fax 01932 868803



Chapter 1 Engines

Lubrication System

Cooling System

Diesel Fuel Injection System (CDI)

Chapter 2 Clutch

Chapter 3 Manual Transmission (Gearbox)

Chapter 4 Front Axle

Chapter 5 Rear Axle Propeller Shaft

Chapter 6 Front and Rear Suspension

Chapter 7 Steering

Chapter 8 Brake System

Chapter 9 Electrical System

Chapter 10 Turbo Charger and Exhaust System

Chapter 11 Servicing and Maintenance

Fault Finding Section

Wiring Diagram Index


Our Owners Manual are based on easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions and advice, which enables you to carry out many jobs yourself. Moreover, now you have the means to avoid these frustrating delays and inconveniences that so often result from not knowing the right approach to carry out repairs that are often of a comparatively simple nature.

Whilst special tools are required to carry out certain operations, we show you in this manual the essential design and construction of such equipment, whenever possible, to enable you in many cases to improvise or use alternative tools. Experience shows that it is advantageous to use only genuine parts since these give you the assurance of a first class job. You will find that many parts are identical in the range covered in this manual, but our advice is to find out before purchasing new parts.

Always buy your spare parts from an officially appointed dealer.

0.0. General Information

The manual covers the listed Mercedes-Benz commercial vehicles with 2.2 and 2.7 litre direct injection diesel engine, fitted with “Common Rail” injection system. The following models are covered:

• 208 CDI, 308 CDI are fitted with the 2.2 litre four-cylinder diesel engine with a conventional turbocharger, a charge air cooler and a performance of 60 kW (83 BHP) at 3800 rpm (engine type 611)

• 211 CDI, 311 CDI and 411 CDI are fitted with the 2.2 litre four-cylinder diesel engine with a so-called variable nozzle turbocharger, VNT for short, and a performance of 109 kW (80 BHP) at 3800 rpm (engine type 611).

• 213 CDI, 313 CDI and 413 CDI are fitted with the 2.2 litre four-cylinder diesel engine with the same turbocharger, but the performance has been increased to 129 kW (95 BHP) at 3800 rpm (engine type 611).

• The remaining models 216 CDI, 316 CDI and 416 CDI are fitted with the 2.7 litre five-cylinder engine with a performance of 156 kW (115 BHP) at 3800 rpm (engine type 612). The engine is similar to the four-cylinder engine, with the additional cylinder added on. The engine has a VNT turbocharger as explained above and a charge air cooler (intercooler).

In general you can identify the model by the two numbers before the “CDI". All models with “08” have the 2.2 litre engine, models with “11” also have the 2.2 litre engine with increased performance, models ending with “13” have the more powerful 129 BHP engine, models with “16” have the five-cylinder engine.

Many different body versions, model numbers and engine versions are used in the range of vehicles marketed. You should familiarise yourself with the model number of your vehicle. Lack of space prevents us from listing every model. We should like to stress that not all vehicles are sold in any particular country.

All vehicles covered in the manual are fitted with either a five-speed transmission, an automatic transmission, or a six-speed transmission known as “Sprintshift”.

The various model numbers are followed by further numbers, which enables the workshop to identify your model correctly when it comes to spare parts, accessory parts, etc.

The different vehicles are available with a number of different wheel bases. The following lists some of the available options:

• Sprinter panel vans are available with “normal” length and “medium” length (wheelbase 3000 and 3550 mm).

• Sprinter panel vans with high roof are available with “normal”, “medium” and “long” (wheelbase 3000, 3550 and 4025 mm).

• Sprinter Pick-Ups with standard cab and crew cab are available with “normal", “medium” and “long” (wheelbase 3000, 3550 and 4025 mm). The same applies to Sprinter Tippers and Sprinter Chassis. Some of these models are not available in the UK.

The front suspension consists of a transversely fitted leaf spring. A suspension arm with ball joint is used at the bottom. A hydraulic, telescopic shock absorber is bolted to the steering knuckle and attached to the body with the upper end. The stabiliser bar is bolted to the chassis and connected to the two lower suspension arms.

The rear axle has been taken from the earlier MB transporters, i.e. a rigid axle with leaf springs and hydraulic, telescopic shock absorbers is used, but disc brakes are fitted to the rear wheels.

Disc brakes at the front and rear make up the brake system, assisted by a brake servo unit. The vacuum for the servo unit is taken from a special exhauster pump (vacuum pump). Depending on the model, ABS can be fitted as standard or is available as optional extra. Models can also have an automatic brake differential, known as “ABD”, standard fitting on various models

The rack and pinion steering is servo-assisted.


Fig. 0.1 - The position of the vehicle type identification plate in the engine compartment.

0.1. Identification

When you purchased the vehicle you will have received various data cards which have all important vehicle details, as for example chassis number and component numbers as well as identification of optional equipment, etc. Your Owner’s Manual will give you further instructions on the use of these cards.


Fig. 0.2 - The position of the type identification plate in the door opening.

You will know the location of the type identification plate, giving you the max. permissible weight, max. permissible weight on front and rear axles and other important data. Depending on the model version, the type identification plate is located in the engine compartment, at the position shown in Fig. 0.1 or at the bottom of the seat on the driver’s side, as shown in Fig. 0.2.

The engine number can be found on the L.H. side of the cylinder block. Transmission, rear axle and steering also have a serial number, stamped into the housing.

Always quote the complete chassis number and/or engine number and the model year of the Sprinter in question when ordering parts. Important also is the actual model number, which will indicate the construction of the vehicle, for example two or four wheels on the rear axle, etc.

0.2. Filling Capacities


0.3. General Servicing Notes

The servicing and overhaul instructions in this Workshop Manual are laid out in an easy-to-follow step-by-step fashion and no difficulty should be encountered, if the text and diagrams are followed carefully and methodically. The “Technical Data” sections form an important part of the repair procedures and should always be referred to during work on the vehicle.

In order that we can include as much data as possible, you will find that we do not generally repeat in the text the values already given under the technical data headings. Again, to make the best use of the space available, we do not repeat at each operation the more obvious steps necessary - we feel it to be far more helpful to concentrate on the difficult or awkward procedures in greater detail. However, we summarise below a few of the more important procedures and draw your attention to various points of general interest that apply to all operations.

Always use the torque settings given in the various main sections of the manual. These are grouped together in separate sub-sections for convenient reference.

Bolts and nuts should be assembled in a clean and very lightly oiled condition and faces and threads should always be inspected to make sure that they are free from damage burrs or scoring. DO NOT degrease bolts or nuts.

All joint washers, gaskets, tabs and lock washers, split pins and “O” rings must be replaced on assembly. Seals will, in the majority of cases, also need to be replaced, if the shaft and seal have been separated. Always lubricate the lip of the seal before assembly and take care that the seal lip is facing the correct direction.

References to the left-hand and right-hand sides are always to be taken is if the observer is at the rear of the vehicle, facing forwards, unless otherwise stated.

Always make sure that the vehicle is adequately supported, and on firm ground, before commencing any work on the underside of the car. A small jack or a make shift prop can be highly dangerous; proper axle stands are an essential requirement for your own safety.

Dirt, grease and mineral oil will rapidly destroy the seals of the hydraulic system and even the smallest amounts must be prevented from entering the system or coming into contact with the components. Use clean brake fluid or one of the proprietary cleaners to wash the hydraulic system parts. An acceptable alternative cleaner is methylated spirit, but if this is used, it should not be allowed to remain in contact with the rubber parts for longer than necessary. It is also important that all traces of the fluid should be removed from the system before final assembly.

Always use genuine manufacturer’s spares and replacements for the best results.

Since the manufacturer uses metric units when building the cars it is recommended that these are used for all precise units. Inch conversions are given in most cases but these are not necessarily precise conversions, being rounded off for the unimportant values.

Removal and installation instructions in this Workshop Manual cover the steps to take away or put back the unit or part in question. Other instructions, usually headed “Servicing", will cover the dismantling and repair of the unit once it has been stripped from the vehicle. It should be noted that the major instructions cover a complete overhaul of all parts but, obviously, this will not always be necessary and should not be carried out needlessly.

There are a number of variations in unit parts on the range of vehicles covered in this Workshop Manual. We strongly recommend that you take care to identify the precise model, and the year of manufacture, before obtaining any spares or replacement parts.


To indicate sizes and limits of components as supplied by the manufacturer. Also to indicate the production tolerances of new unused parts.


Parts supplied as Oversize or Undersize or recommended limits for such parts, to enable them to be used with worn or re-machined mating parts.


O/S indicates a part that is larger than Std. size U/S may indicate a bore of a bushing or female part that is smaller than Std.


Where given against a clearance or dimension indicates the maximum allowable. If in excess of the value given it is recommended that the appropriate part is fitted.


Indicates the Total Indicator Reading as shown by a dial indicator (dial gauge).


Top Dead Centre (No. 1 piston on firing stroke).


Multi-Purpose grease.

Disconnecting the Battery

The battery must be disconnected before any operations are carried out on parts connected to the electrical system of the vehicle. The following precautions must be observed when the battery is disconnected. Fig. 0.3 shows where the battery is located in the vehicle.

• Always disconnect the earth (ground) cable first. The smaller terminal is the earth cable.

• If a radio with security code is fitted, make sure you have the code handy before you disconnect the battery. The code will be erased when the battery is disconnected and must be re-entered. Stored radio stations will also be lost and must also be reset after the battery has been connected.

• Certain alarm systems will go off when the battery has been disconnected. Make sure to neutralise such a system and reactivate it after the battery has been connected. The clock will also stop.


Fig. 0.3 - Location of the battery.

0.4. Jacking up of the Vehicle

Before jacking up the vehicle remember that this is not a passenger car. It is also important to ensure that the jack used is strong enough to lift the vehicle. Additional load in the cargo room of the vehicle should always be removed before the vehicle is jacked up. It has also been known that the vehicle has tipped or fallen over during the jacking operation - you have been told.

For small jobs, jack up the vehicle as described in the Owner’s Manual with the hydraulic jack supplied with the vehicle.


Fig. 0.4 - Jacking up the front end of the vehicle, using a mobile jack in the L.H. view and the hydraulic jack supplied with the vehicle in the R.H. view.

To jack up the vehicle completely, first jack up the front end. Chock the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling off the jack or apply the handbrake. Place a mobile jack underneath crossmember of the front axle as shown in the L.H. view of Fig. 0.4. If the hydraulic vehicle jack is used, place it underneath the front spring as shown in Fig. 0.4 on the R.H. side, immediately in front of the front axle.

Chassis stands, as shown in Fig. 0.5, should only be placed on the L.H. and R.H. sides under the front axle, as you can see in Fig. 0.4 on the L.H. side. Use chassis stands of the construction shown in Fig. 0.4, should be used, but again make sure that they are strong enough to carry the weight of the vehicle. Make sure the vehicle cannot slip off the stands. Also make sure that the ground where the vehicle is jacked up and will rest on the chassis stands is not too soft to prevent jack or chassis stands to sink into the ground.


Fig. 05 - Three-legged chassis stands are the safest method to support the vehicle when work has to be carried out on the underside of the vehicle.

The rear end of the vehicle is jacked up with a mobile jack, as shown on the L.H. side of Fig. 0.6 or with the hydraulic jack shown in Fig.0.6 on the R.H. side. Chassis stands are placed underneath the axle beam, noting the points shown in the L.H. view of Fig. 0.6. Again make sure that no additional weights are left in the cargo room.


Fig. 0.6 - Jacking up the rear end of the vehicle with a mobile jack in the L.H. view or with the hydraulic jack supplied.


Fig. 0.7 - Jacking points when the vehicle is lifted up on a platform lift. Also shown is the equipment used in a Mercedes workshop to facilitate the lifting. The numbers and letters are explained in the text.

Experience has shown that many independent workshops use platform lift to jack up the vehicle to carry out operations from underneath. In this case you should refer to Fig. 0.7 to locate the points where the vehicle can be lifted up. The following information will help you to lift the vehicle:

• To lift the front end of the vehicle, a short support disc (a) is placed underneath the spring clamp (1) of the front axle.

• A long support disc (b) is placed underneath the transmission carrier (2).

• To lift the rear end of the vehicle, jack up the longitudinal frame member (3) or the front spring bracket (4) of the rear spring. A “V”-shaped block (c) is used to ensure safe lifting.


Fig. 0.8 - Jacking up the front end of the vehicle with the hydraulic jack immediately before the front wheel on the L.H. side (a) and jacking up the rear on the R.H. side (b). Also refer to Fig. 0.9. Follow the instructions in the text.

As, however, not all models have the same jacking points, we refer in Fig. 8 and 9 to some of the jacking points when a wheel is being changed:

• To lift the front wheel, apply the jack supplied with the vehicle as shown in Fig. 8 (L.H. side), immediately before the front wheel.


Fig. 0.9 - Jacking up the front end and rear end of the vehicle with the hydraulic jack on the front bracket of the rear spring. Follow the instructions in the text.

• To lift a rear wheel of a box van, apply the jack supplied with the vehicle as shown in Fig. 8 (R.H. view), immediately before the rear wheel.

• To lift up a rear wheel of a platform vehicle refer to view 9 (L.H. side). The jacking point is located next to the front mountings of the rear springs. Never lift the vehicle underneath the differential housing or the leaf spring. The same jacking point applies to vehicles with twin rear wheels and can be seen in Fig. 9 on the R.H. side.

Note: It is always difficult to raise a vehicle first on one side and then on the other. Take care that the vehicle cannot tip-over when the first side is lifted. Ask a helper to support the vehicle from the other side. Never work underneath the vehicle without adequate support.


1.0. Technical Data



1.1. Engine - Removal and Installation

The removal of the engine and transmission requires a suitable lifting hoist or hand crane to lift the power unit out of the vehicle. The engine and transmission is removed from the vehicle as a complete unit after the parts shown in Fig. 1.1 are removed from the front end of the vehicle. The engine and transmission is a heavy unit and the hoist or crane must be strong enough to take the weight of the assembly, remembering that the weight is more than 200 lbs. The following description is a general guideline, as we cannot refer to every possible variation and/or equipment that may be fitted to your vehicle. If an air conditioning system is fitted, it is not possible to remove the engine under DIY conditions, unless you have the system discharged and after completion of the installation re-charged at a Mercedes Dealer or a workshop dealing with A/C systems.


Fig. 1.1 - The engine can be removed from the vehicle after the illustrated parts have been removed from the front end of the vehicle or as described on the following pages.


Fig. 1.2 - Details for the removal and installation of the engine (612 engine shown). Disconnect or remove the items as described.

1 Coolant hose to heater

2 Front section of exhaust

3 Bracket

4 Coolant hose, heater return

5 Return flow pipe

6 High pressure pipe

7 Sealing ring

8 Vacuum line

9 Air intake hose

10 Fuel pipe

11 Fuel pipe

12 Vacuum line

13 Vacuum pipe

14 Charge air hose

15 Refrigerant hose

16 Sealing ring


Fig. 1.3 - Removal and installation of the engine bonnet. The numbers are referred to below.

Figs. 1.2 and 1.4 show details of the items to be removed or disconnected. The following removal instructions will also give you information to refit a certain part or unit or the applicable tightening torque of bolts and/or nuts. All self-locking nuts and bolts must be replaced during installation.

• Jack up and support the vehicle as required when operations are carried out from below.

• Open the bonnet and remove it as follows. To do this, refer to Fig. 1.3 and remove the collared nut (6) at the bonnet hinge (5) on both sides. Remove the bolts (3) and the plain washers (4) and detach the bonnet supports (2) on both sides of the bonnet. Carefully lift off the bonnet (1) - help required and place it somewhere where it cannot be damaged. During installation attach the bonnet (1) to the hinges (5) without tightening the nuts fully. Fit the bonnet supports (2) with bolts (3) and washers (4) and tighten immediately. The bonnet is now adjusted to obtain equal gaps on all edges and the collared nuts are tightened. Grease the hinges. Disconnect the battery and locate the engine wiring harness on the vehicle side.


Fig. 1.4 - Details for the removal and installation of the engine and transmission. The items shown must be removed or disconnected from below the vehicle.

1 Propeller shaft flange nut

2 Tachograph sensor

3 Sealing ring

4 Plug, reversing light switch

5 Rear engine support

6 Centre nut

7 Engine support nut

8 Gearchange cable

9 Gearchange cable

10 Earth cable

11 Clutch fluid line

12 Securing clip

13 Sealing ring

• The next operation is the removal of the dust filter. The filter for the heating/air conditioning system must always be replaced. Removal takes place by referring to Fig. 1.5. Remove the insulation above the ventilation box lid (1), open the locking clips (2) at the front and at the back and slide the ventilation box lid in the direction of the arrow in the R.H. view and remove the lid. The dust filter (3) can now be removed. The installation is carried out in reverse order. Make sure the locking clips are tight. If a new filter is fitted obtain one for the vehicle in question.


Fig. 1.5 - Removal and installation of the dust filter (refer to text).

• Open the expansion tank cap. It is assumed that the engine is fairly cold. Drain the cooling system as described in Section “Cooling System”. Remove the radiator as described in the same section.

• Disconnect the charge air hose (14) in Fig. 1.2 from the mixing housing with the exhaust gas recirculation.

• Disconnect the high-pressure pipe (6) in Fig. 1.2 and the fluid return line (5) from the power steering pump.

• Detach the vacuum line (13) at the vacuum unit on the charge air distribution pipe.

• Disconnect the fuel lines (10) and (11) from the fuel filter.

• The next operation assumes that the refrigerant circuit has been discharged as suggested above. The refrigerant line (15) is in this case disconnected. The seal (16) must be replaced during connection of the pipe.

• Disconnect the vacuum lie (8) for the brake servo unit from the vacuum pump.

• Disconnect the heater return coolant hose (4) from the intermediate piece and detach the coolant hose of the heater feed (1) from the coolant pipe on the side of the cylinder head.

• Disconnect the air intake hose (9) from the air cleaner housing.

• Disconnect the vacuum line (12) from the vacuum unit for the turbo charger.

• Remove the nuts from the bracket (3) for the front section of the exhaust system (2).

• Disconnect the propeller shaft (14) in Fig. 1.4 from the drive flange of the gearbox. The nuts (1) must always be replaced. Tighten the nuts to 7.0 kgm (50

• If fitted, disconnect the tachograph sensor (2) in Fig. 1.5 on the transmission. Replace the seal (3) during installation.

• Withdraw the cable plug (4) in Fig. 1.4 from the reversing light switch. Also withdraw a plug from the engine start/stop switch.

• If a manual transmission is fitted disconnect the gearchange cables (8) and (9). To remove, press the catches together, remove the cables from the bracket and unclip them from the ball heads. If a Sprintshift transmission is fitted separate the plug connections. During installation make sure that the gearchange cables are securely attached to the ball heads.

• If a manual transmission is fitted detach the clutch fluid line (11) in Fig. 1.4 at the gearbox, remove the locking element (12) and withdraw the pipe (11) out of the clutch slave cylinder inside the gearbox. Keep brake fluid away from your hands during this operation. Close the open pipe end to prevent entry of dirt. A rubber dust cap from one of the brake calipers can be used and pushed over the pipe end. The clip (12) and the seal (13) must be replaced during installation.

• Disconnect the earth (ground) cable (10) in Fig. 1.4.

• Remove the nut (8) from the centre mounting bearing on the transmission, remove the nuts (7) and slowly lower the rear engine support and remove it. The gearbox will rest on the front axle crossmember. During installation tighten the nuts (7) to 4.5 kgm (32.5 and the nut (6) in the centre to 9.0 kgm (65

• Remove the trim panel from the cylinder head as described later on. This is to facilitate the access to the lifting brackets.

• Insert the lifting hoist with a beam from the front into the engine compartment and attach ropes or chains to the lift brackets at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Also place a mobile jack underneath the transmission to support it from below. Before the remaining mountings are removed make sure that the assembly is adequately supported to avoid accidents.

• Remove the nuts off both engine mountings on both sides of the engine. When fitting the mountings lower the engine slowly onto the support bearings and insert the bolts in the centre. Tighten them finger-tight until engine and mounting are in contact with each other. Then lower the engine fully and tighten the bolts on both sides to 8.3 kgm (60

• Slowly lift out the engine and transmission assembly continuously checking that all connections, pipes, cables, etc, have been disconnected to prevent damage.

The installation of the engine and transmission is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the various points already given during the removal procedure. The clutch system must be bled of air if a manual transmission is fitted. Fuel connections and the cooling system must be checked for leaks after installation. Also note these additional points:

• Check the engine/transmission mountings, the oil and the fuel pipes for damage and replace as necessary.

• If a manual transmission is fitted check the condition of the clutch release bearing.

• Do not connect any of the parts fitted to the engine before the mountings have been fitted and the weight of the assembly is free of the lifting hoist/crane.

• Re-connect the propeller shaft as described in the section concerned.

• Check and if necessary correct the oil level in engine and transmission. If the engine has been drained fill it with the recommended oil.

• Before filling the cooling system make sure that all drain points have been closed.

• All bolts and nuts must be tightened to the necessary torque settings.

• After starting the engine and allowing it to warm up, check the cooling system for leaks. Drive the vehicle a few miles to check for exhaust pipe rattle.

Note: There is no need to remove the engine and the transmission when the engine mountings or the rear crossmember must be removed or replaced.

1.2. Engine - Dismantling

Diesel engines are sensitive to dirt or other contamination. It is therefore essential to make sure that no foreign matter can enter the pipes, connections, etc. during the dismantling operations.

Dismantling of the engine will be made much easier if a swivelling engine stand is available. Otherwise place the engine/transmission on a workbench, supporting it adequately to prevent it from falling over.

Before commencing dismantling, block up the inlet and exhaust openings and give the exterior of the engine a thorough cleaning to remove all loose dirt and oil. Pay particular attention to all joint surfaces, brushing these to remove loose debris that might otherwise find its way into the interior of the engine.

Many of the parts are made of aluminium alloy and must be treated accordingly. Only use plastic or rubber mallets to separate parts, if necessary.

As a complete strip-down of the engine is in most cases not necessary, and many of the operations can be carried out with the engine fitted, you will find in the following text a description of individual operations which can be carried out with the engine fitted and removed. Combining these, will give you the complete dismantling of the engine.

1.3 Engine - Overhaul


image Cylinder Head - Working on the Cylinder Head

The following information should be noted when work is carried out on a cylinder head:

• The cylinder head is made of light-alloy. Engine coolant, engine oil, the air required to ignite the fuel and the exhaust gases are directed through the cylinder head. Glow plugs, injectors and valve tappets are fitted to the cylinder head. Also in the cylinder heads you will find the camshafts.

• The exhaust manifold and the inlet manifold are bolted to the outside of the head. The fuel enters the head on one side and exits on the other side.

• The cylinder head is fitted with various sender units, sensors and switching valves, responsible for certain functions of the temperature control.

• As the cylinder head is made of light alloy, it is prone to distortion if, for example, the order of slackening or tightening of the cylinder head bolts is not observed. For the same reason never remove the cylinder head from a hot engine.

• A cylinder head cannot be checked in the fitted position. Sometimes the cylinder head gasket will "blow", allowing air into the cooling system. A quick check is possible after opening the coolant reservoir cap (engine fairly cold). Allow the engine to warm-up and observe the coolant. Visible air bubbles point in most cases to a "blown" gasket. Further evidence is white exhaust smoke, oil in the coolant or coolant in the engine oil. The latter can be checked at the oil dipstick. A white, grey emulsion on the dipstick is more or less a confirmation of a damaged cylinder head gasket.

• If you are convinced that water has entered the engine and you want to get home or to the nearest garage, unscrew the injectors and crank the engine with the starter motor for a while to eject the water. Refit the injectors, start the engine and drive to your destination without switching off the engine. This is the only method to avoid serious engine damage (bent connecting rods for example).

The cylinder head must only be removed when the engine is cold. The head is removed together with the exhaust manifold, but the inlet manifold must be separated from the cylinder head before the head can be lifted off. New cylinder head gaskets are wrapped in plastic and must only be unwrapped just before the gasket is fitted. The cylinder head can be removed with the engine in the vehicle and these operations are described below, but note that operations may vary, depending on the equipment fitted. Many secondary operations are necessary before the actual cylinder head can be removed. The following description refers therefore in detail to the various jobs.

Cylinder Head Cover - Removal and Installation

Fig. 1.6 shows the parts fitted to the top of the cylinder head cover, but depending on the engine you will find different parts below. Fig. 1.7. shows the 611 engine in the L.H. view. In the case of the 612 engine there is additionally a distribution pipe for the charge air fitted, shown with the arrow in the R.H. view and must also be removed as explained below. Some of the individual operations are also described in the next pages. This will enable you to remove parts from the cylinder head when necessary.

• Disconnect the battery earth cable.

• In the case of the 611 engine, remove the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe as described below under separate heading.

• In the case of the 612 engine remove the charge air distribution pipe (arrow in Fig. 1.7, R.H. view).

• Remove the trim cover from the cylinder head cover (see below).

• Remove the injection pipes and the injectors (1) in Fig. 1.6.


Fig. 1.6 - Removal and installation of the cylinder head cover. The numbers are referred to in the description.

• Remove the crankcase breather tube (2) and withdraw the connector plug (3) from the camshaft position sensor.

• Withdraw the connector plugs (10) from the glow plugs.

• Remove the bolt (4) and unclip the engine wiring harness from the cylinder head cover (7) and from the “Common Rail” distributor pipe. Move the wiring harness to one side. Do not forget the earth cable (arrow) when the parts are fitted.

• Separate the outlet pipe (6), remove the bolts (11) and lift off the cylinder head cover.


Fig. 1.7 - View of the cylinder head. In the L.H. view as fitted to the 611 engine, in the R.H. view as fitted to the 612 engine. The arrow points to the charge air distributor pipe.

The installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. The following points must be observed:

• Fit the cylinder head cover. Check the gaskets (8) and (9) in Fig. 1.6 and replace them if damaged. Do not tighten the cover bolts (11) fully as the injectors are aligned by means of the cylinder head cover.

• Fit all injectors and the tensioning brackets (see also further on) and tighten them in the following order: 611 engine 2-3-4-1, 612 engine 3-4-5-2-1. The bolts (11) securing the cylinder head cover are now tightened to 0.9 kgm (6.5

• Push the cable plugs (10) over the glow plugs, install the cable duct (5) with the engine wiring harness to the cylinder head cover and tighten the bolt (4) with the earth cable (arrow) underneath.

• Push the cable plug (3) over the camshaft position sensor.

• Re-connect the return flow line (6) and the crankcase ventilation hose to the cylinder head cover.

• Install the trim panel to the cylinder head cover, the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe (611 engine) or the charge air distribution pipe (612 engine) as described below under separate headings.

• All other operations are now carried out in reverse order.

Upper part of charge air distribution pipe -Removal/ installation -611 engine

The items to be removed are shown in Fig. 1.8. Remove the upper part (1) as follows:


Fig. 1.8 - Details for the removal and installation of the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe. The numbers are referred to in the text.

• Slacken the hose clamp (11) and withdraw the air intake hose. On the other side disconnect the vacuum line (9).

• Unscrew the bolt (3) at the front bracket of the cylinder head cover, the bolt (4) at the bracket of the fuel filter and the bolt (5) at the rear bracket of the cylinder head cover.

• Separate the flange connection at the EGR valve (6)

• Unscrew the nuts (10) and the bolts (12) and lift off the upper part (1).

The installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. The gasket (7) and the gaskets (8) must always be replaced. The nuts (10) and the bolts (12) are tightened to 0.9 kgm (6.5


Fig. 1.9 - Details for the removal and installation of the charge air distribution pipe - 612 engine. The numbers are referred to in the text.

Charge air distribution pipe - Removal and installation - 612 engine

The 612 engine is fitted with the charge air distribution pipe at the position shown in Fig. 1.7 in the R.H. view. Fig. 1.9 shows the items to be removed and disconnected, as is the case, to remove the pipe (1) as follows:

• Drain the cooling system as described in section “Cooling System”.

• Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the vehicle side.

• Disconnect the charge air hose (15) at the mixing chamber with the exhaust gas circulation. Also withdraw the cable plug (14) at approx. the same position.

• Unscrew the bolt (3).

• Detach the coolant hose (8) at the intermediate piece (6).

• Detach the fuel hoses (9) and (10) from the fuel filter connections. The hose clamp of hose (10) may have to be replaced. Fuel may run out of hose (9). Also replace the seal of the latter hose and make sure it locks in position during installation.

• Remove the support (7) with the bracket (6) from the distribution pipe and the crankcase. Tighten the support to the support to 1.4 kgm (10 and to the crankcase to 2.0 kgm (14.5

• Remove the bolts (18) and take off the bracket (16).

• Disconnect the vacuum hose (13) from the vacuum unit (12) and the coolant hose (2) from the charge air distribution pipe (1) and unscrew the bolts (11) securing the distribution pipe to the cylinder head. Withdraw the pipe away from the cylinder head, lift it upwards and take it out. The engine wiring harness (5) and the fuel lines (9) and (10) must be guided through the openings in the charge air pipe during removal.

The installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. When fitting the pipe to the cylinder head prepare two M7 studs by cutting a slot in their ends and screw them into the head. Place the gasket and the distribution pipe in position and tighten the pipe provisionally with the bolts. Remove the two studs with a screwdriver (reason for the slots in the stud ends) and fit the remaining bolts instead. Tighten all bolts evenly all round to 1.6 kgm (12 The torque for the support is already given above.

Trim Panel of Cylinder Head Cover - Removal and Installation - Both engines

The part in question is shown in Fig. 1.10 in the case of the 611 engine. Remove as follows:


Fig. 1.10 - The trim panel above the cylinder head. In this case the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe is shown above.

• Remove the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe as already described above.

• Remove the bolt and take off the bracket (3).

• Remove the bolts (2) from the trim panel (1) and lift it off the cylinder head. The installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. Tighten the bolts (2) to 1.1 kgm (8

Injection Pipes of Common Rail injection - Removal and Installation

• In the case of a 611 engine remove the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe; in the case of both engines remove the trim panel off the cylinder head cover. Both operations have already been described.

• Slacken the union nuts at the end of the pipes on the injectors and the injection rail. The hexagons on the injectors must be held in position with an open-ended spanner. Remove the pipes and plug the open ends in suitable manner.

The installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. To ensure a stress free fitting of the pipes slacken the injection rail and connect the pipes at each end. Tighten the union nuts (hexagons held with the open-ended spanner) to 2.3 kgm (16.5 Make sure that the pipes are properly installed and re-tighten the injection rail.

Injector - Removal and Installation - All engines

Fig. 1.11 shows the arrangement of the injectors together with the injection pipe and the leak off pipe. A clamp piece with a stretch bolt secures each injector to the cylinder head.

Remove the upper part of the charge air distribution pipe (611 engine only), the cover above the cylinder head and the injection lines (8) as described.


Fig. 1.11 - Removal and installation of injection pipes. The numbers are referred to in the text.

It is possible that the injectors have a tight fit. If this is the case you may need a claw- type puller to pull them out of the cylinder head.

• Withdraw the connector plugs (7) from the side of each injector (1).

• Remove the locking clips (5) at the connections of the leak-off pipe (6) lift off the pipe and place it to one side.

• Unscrew the stretch bolt (4) from each injector. The bolts must always be replaced during installation of the injectors.